HOW TO MAKE A WENDY HOUSE

HOW TO MAKE A WENDY HOUSE

One:

The Floor and the Frame

The Wendy House.
This wendy house is basically a playhouse with a few feminine touches added. A wendy house can give children hours of enjoyment. And with a little imagination, customized touches can be added to create a unique and special environment.
This house stands 78" high, is 92" long and 48"wide with a 28" wide deck along the front.

About the lumber.
The lumber sizes referred to in this project are the finished or 'actual' sizes.
The floor base is constructed of 1 1/2"x 5 1/2" treated stock. The floor is 3/4"x 3 1/2" decking boards.

All the framing is 1 1/2"x 2 1/2" stock with the exception of the ridge beam (1 1/2"x 3 1/2") and the posts (1 1/2"x 2 1/2" treated stock).

The Plans.





The Floor and Frame Cutting List.



The Instructions.

one: The pieces
Cut all the lumber as shown in the cutting list above.

two: The base and floor
On a level, flat piece of ground make a rectangle by nailing the two longer joists (a) to two of the shorter joists (b). Nail another four intermediate joists (b) in place evenly spaced (see above floor frame plan). Use 4" galvanized nails.

Check that the floor base is square by measuring diagonally from corner to corner. When the diagonals are equal, then the base is square.

Cut the decking to length (20 lengths @ 92") and Lay and fix to the base beginning from one side. Use 3" galvanized nails.

three: the wall frames
Lay out the bottom plates (d) flat on the floor to form a rectangle 48" x 92". Lay the top plates (e) on top of the bottom plates and mark the stud positions on the edge of both plates (see above plate and stud layout diagram).
Separate the plates (d & e) and lay the studs (f) in place. Cut and fix nogs (g) between studs (f) as shown in 'the plans' diagram above.
Nail the wall frame together.
There will be four wall frames in all, the two end frames and the front and back frame.

Stand the frames up in place and nail together, ensure the bottom plates are straight and fix to the floor.

Check all corners are vertical (plumb) and fix temporary diagonal braces to the insides of the wall frames.

four: the roof frame
Centralize the two ridge supports (i) on top of the two end frames and fix in an upright position.

Balance the ridge beam (j) on top of the ridge supports (i) and fix in place with nails (angled) through the ends of the ridge beam into the supports.

Fix the 10 rafters (k) in place (5 each side) beginning with the end rafters and then the intermediates.

Fix the lower rafter supports (m) in place at the lower end of the top rafters (k). (see diagram below ).

Fix the lower rafters (l) in place on top of the lower rafter supports (m) and so that the top of the lower rafters (l) are at a point 12 1/2" up from the bottoms of the top rafters (k). (see diagram below)



Nail the beam (n) to the end of the lower rafters.

Fix three posts (o) plumb under the beam (n). One post in the middle and one at each end.

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The door / handrail

nine: The door The cut-out piece of plywood saved from the door hole can now be made into the door. Trim the bottom edge (about 3/4") to ensure the door will easily open and sand the edges. There should be about 1/4" clearance both sides of the door. Reinforce the door with 1x4 wood nailed to the back. Pack the door in place and screw on the hinges. See diagram. Nail a piece of doorstop (1"x 1") down the doorjamb stud the thickness of the door in from the outside. This acts as both a doorstop and wind and weather seal. Your preferred door handle / lock / or latch can be fitted.

ten: The windows Draw a window pattern such as an oblong, a heart or 4 squares (keeping within the perimeters of the window frame) and cut out with a jigsaw. First drill a hole through the plywood using a drill bit large enough to make a hole that will accept the jigsaw blade. Once the windows are cut out, cover with an oblong piece of 1/8" acrylic sheet (plastic glass). Ensure the acrylic sheet is larger than the window holes to allow for waterproof mastic sealant and screwing. The tops of the acrylic sheet (plastic glass) on the sidewalls should tuck under the existing flashing.

eleven: The handrail Cut the 1 1/2"x 3 1/2" top and bottom rails to length (to fit between the posts) and rebate them. On one side only, pencil two lines 1" apart along the length in the center of the rails, (see handrail detail diagram).Set the blade on your circular saw to a depth of 3/4" and do repeated cuts along and between the two pencil lines. Clean out with a chisel. This will give you a rebated groove 1" wide x 3/4" deep along the center of the rails. Cut 1x6 lumber into 22 1/2" lengths and implement a pattern of your choice. The pattern shown in the handrail detail diagram is just one idea. Make the pattern on one panel and use that as your template to do the rest. Fit the panels into the rebated grooves in the top and bottom rails. This is best done by laying the top and bottom rails on the ground and then inserting the panels into the grooves. If the number of panels does not work out exactly, one will need to be marked and ripped (cut) down lengthwise. When one section is finished, tie a rope around each end so the panels will not fall out while that section is being installed. Nail each section in, and fix the rails to the posts with 4" galvanized nails. Do this to all 3 parts

Materials

1 1/2"x 5 1/2" stock for floor joists. 60ft of
3/4"x 3 1/2" stock for decking. 165ft of
1 1/2"x 2 1/2" stock for framing. 365ft of
1 1/2"x 2 1/2" treated stock for posts. 14ft of
1 1/2"x 3 1/2" stock for ridge beam. 8ft of
1 1/2"x 3 1/2" treated stock for handrail. 20ft of
1x6 treated stock for handrail. 65ft of
1x4 stock for fascia, barge board, ridge capping and door backing. 60ft of
Galvanized horizontal weather strip flashing. 8ft of
1/8" thick acrylic sheet (plastic glass) for windows. 16 sq ft of
Assorted nails, mastic sealant, hinges, door handle, misc